Showing posts with label Zacatecas. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Zacatecas. Show all posts

Thursday, March 12, 2015

Bus Trip, Alta Vista Ruin Site, Chalchihuites, Zacatecas, Mexico

  Alta Vista Ruin Site,  Chalchihuites, Zacatecas
Update, March 2015

     I reached the town of Chlchihuites via bus from Sombrerte.  The following day I hired a taxi to take me to Alta Vista Ruin Site, a long downhill glide from Chalchihuites.  I was soon in the small museum looking over the ceramic objects and site scale models.
   
     The caretaker approached and greeted me, the only visitor.  He explained that the site had the same name carried by the nearby town but was more commonly called Alta Vista, the official name given it by the Government.
    The caretaker told me that researchers at Alta Vista had found solar significance in the construction of the buildings situated on a gently sloping hillside at 7, 200 feet above sea level.  The researchers cite deliberate placement by the builders of the ritual center at latitude 23* 28' 58", smack on the Tropic of Cancer, give or take a mile.  The tropic line moves a few feet each year, I would learn, so the builders in ancient times could be forgiven their GPS and computer-less error.

City of Zacatecas
 
      What they had built though was an ideal spot for the observation of the summer solstice or zenith day.  At that location the sun would appear to stand still in its movement north over the earth on June 21 and would not only linger for a day directly overhead at Chalchihuites, but appear to reverse direction and start its (apparent) annual movement south.
   
     As I toured with the caretaker, he pointed out peaks in the distant hills where stone markers indicate a use of the center by builders of Teotihuacan to track the movements of the sun.
     The site was occupied from 100 AD to 1400 AD but was in active building stages between 400 and 850 AD, this according to archaeological researchers.  Some suggest that the Teotihuacan culture built the complex as a ritual center in the 4th century AD.
   
      Archaeological investigation of the site began with the work of Mexican archaeologists Manuel Gamino who first explored the site in 1908.  Later in 1971, Charles Kelley began digs at Alta Vista that spanned five years.  His studies of the site and region continued for 45 years.
     Archaeoastronomer Anthony F. Aveni of Colgate University, famed for his work with sun and star alignments on many Mexican sites, wrote, along with Kelly, in 1977 about the ruin and its solar significance in the alignment of walls and sight lines to the rising of the sun over distant mountains.
              Aveni, Anthony,  F. Horst Hartung, and J. Charles Kelley. 1982. "Alta Vista (Chalchihuites): Astronomical Implications of a Mesoamerican Ceremonial Outpost at the Tropic of Cancer." American Antiquity, vol. 47, pp. 316-335. 




Zacatecas Zip line, hiking Tour
   
     The caretaker didn't remember me from past visits as he pointed out  features include a solar equinox alignment and a summer solstice alignment of the sun over the mountain peak, Picacho, in the distance to the southwest, and to ridge called Chapin at dawn, where investigators found two cross-shaped petroglyphs similar to ones used by the builders of Teotihuacan when they designed that city.  Those markers at Chapin Mesa were the telling link between Alta Vista and its use by the distant City of Teotihuacan as a ceremonial outpost at the northern limit of Mesoamerica.
   
     It became evident that the caretaker was out to prove all of this to me as he had me squatting and sighting along walls this way and that.  He had many quirky facts to tell but I was relieved that he didn't pull out of his bag of tricks the lost tribe of Israel as a guide had done to Lorraine and me when we visited Monte Alban in Oaxaca.
          I suspect that the indigenous of Mexico didn't need help from the Egyptians, the Africans, spacemen, or lost tribes to build their grand stone cities; they were keen observers of nature who built their religion around observed natural events.

Alta Vista Chalchihuites, Zacatecas

La Quemada, Chicomostoc Ruin Zacatecas


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Sunday, March 9, 2014

Alta Vista, Stone Calendar Zacatecas

 Alta Vista, Stone Calendar In Zacatecas

Zenith Day

 A unique event happens on June 21 at the archaeological ruin site of Alta Vista.   We rarely consider this phenomenon although we all feel the tug of seasonal change as the sun moves over the Tropic of Cancer at Alta Vista on zenith day.
Standing stones arranged east and west show the movement
 of the sun by the changing length of the shadow. 
On  Zenith Day at Alta Vista there will be no shadow
falling to the sides of the stones during the mid day.   
Another group of stones  such as these are laid out north
 and south  and they will show  the daily change 
in the sun's shadow and allow for  tracking  the
 sun as it moves north and south. during the year 
     Alta Vista Ruin is a massive stone timepiece built 1800 years ago into the plains of Chalchihuites in Zacatecas by a culture that had so much passion for tracking the movement of the sun over the earth that they built a ten-acre sundial.

     While Alta Vista archaeological ruin site is so out of the tourist track that few people visit except during the annual Zenith Day, the designers of Alta Vista considered the seasonal movement of the sun over the earth so important that they built standing stones, groups of columns, walls with sight lines, and sundial stones to record the sun's movement.

Standing stones arranged east and west show
shadows on every day except on Zenith Day
 at Alta Vista.  
Another group of stones  such as these are laid
out north and south  and they will show
 the daily change in the sun's shadow and
allow for  tracking  the sun as it moves 
north and south. during the year 

     Squat and peer through slits in the walls to see sun alignments on the distant mountains and you will peer into the world of zenith days, seasonal change, daylight savings times, the changing of the leaves, the running of the salmon, the midnight sun of the arctic and the winter doldrums of the northern latitudes.  Shadows on the many columns and rows of stone north and south will quickly demonstrate the elegant simplicity of a standing stone's ability to record the apparent movement of the sun.

Standing stones show shadow on every day
 except on Zenith Day at Alta Vista.  
Stones  such as these are laid out east
and west, north and south  and they will show
 the daily change in the sun's shadow and allow
 for  tracking  the movement of the sun 
both during the day and during the year 

     Northerners rarely connect the movement of the sun over the earth with the resultant four seasons.  The phenomenon may only come to consciousness at ruins sites such as Monte Alban in Oaxaca City where the ancients built a zenith observation stone to record the May and August zenith days, at Chichen Itza where a snake shadow moves down a staircase on the equinox, or at the Izapa ruin site where stone columns are set in the cardinal points, and perhaps at that circle of stones on the Salisbury Plain, Stonehenge.

At the archaeological site of Monte Alban
 a standing stone shows no shadow
 on the two Zenith Days at the site, May
and August.  The stone shows the daily 
change in the shadow and allows for  tracking
  the movement of the sun both during
 the day and during the year 

     Mexico's first century observers could record the movement of the sun by measuring shadows on the ground but likely didn't know that it is not the sun that moves over the earth but the tilted angle of the earth's axis that causes the apparent movement of the sun, north and then back to south each year as the earth revolves around the sun.  They could see the shadows change but perhaps could never have imagined the four seasons and the midnight suns in the far northern and southern hemispheres.
     Then again, since their ancestors had crossed the polar regions during the ice age, they might just have had legends full of the disappearing sun and its long winter absences.

Sun positions over the Zenith stone 
at Monte Alban archaeological site
Oaxaca

       European geographers such as first century Rome's Pliny living at latitude 41 knew that the climate went through drastic seasonal changes throughout the year.  And the Greeks, three hundred years before Pliney, determined the circumference of the earth by measuring the suns shadow.

For those living well south of the Tropic of Capricorn the Summer occurs during the winter months when it is cold in the northern hemisphere.  In South America and Africa the longest periods of daylight and hottest weather occurs during December and January.  The sun is at its zenith on the Tropic of Capricorn on December 21  and appears to be directly overhead in the mid-day at 24° 30′ 0″ S, 69° 15′ 0″ W,  over the driest place on earth, the Atacama Desert of Chile.

Standing stones and standing columns show no shadow on Zenith Day at Alta Vista.  
Stones  laid out east and west, north and south  will show the daily change in the shadow and allow for
 tracking  the movement of the sun both during the day and during the year 
 
     After December 22 the sun appears to move north over the earth each day towards its zenith day over the Tropic of Cancer at Chalchihuites, latitude 23° 28′ 58″ N, 103° 52′ 39″ W,  on the Summer Solstice.  The northern hemisphere warms in June because the tilt of the axis of the earth has positioned the northern hemisphere beneath the direct rays of the sun.  Zenith day at the Tropic of Cancer is the longest period of daylight in the northern hemisphere.  If you traveled north from Chalchihuites, the duration of daylight would increase until at the north pole the sun would not set at all on the 22nd of June.  At Prudhoe Bay for example the sun does not set from mid May to mid July.
The walls are designed with sightlines to distant
 mountains


Sightlines to clefts in the distant mountains can track the 
movement of the sun during the year 

    Concomitantly, in the southern hemisphere, June 21 is the shortest day of the year.  At the South Pole on June 21 the sun does not rise at all.   Between these apparent extreme movements of the sun over the earth are the Fall Equinox, which occurs on September 22, and the Spring Equinox, which occurs on March 22.  These two dates are zenith days of the sun over the Equator at Belem in Brazil, near latitude zero, half way between the Tropic of Cancer and Tropic of Capricorn.  On these dates the period of daylight and darkness are equal in the northern and southern hemisphere at the Tropics of Cancer and Capricorn.


Walls are constructed to allow sight lines to distant mountains to track the 
movement of the sun during the year 


     With the stone observatory of Alta Vista and other solar-related structures like it  the people of ancient Mexico appear to have worshipped the sun.    They were deeply concerned with the readily observable change each day in the suns shadow as they tracked the sun's movement north and south.   Perhaps they feared that someday it would not return, so much so that they built the marvelous stone calendar at Alta Vista


Stones laid out east and west can track the 
movement of the sun both during the day
and during the year 

Bus to Alta Vista Ruin Site from Zacatecas.
 Three-hour Omnibus de Mexico bus with trips each hour the 100 miles to Sombrerete for 160 pesos.    From Sombrerete another 35 miles to Chalchihuites via a local bus.  Taxi to Alta Vista archaeological site, arrange for return




Related Link  Alta Vista Columns 
Monte Alban
Chichen Itza Equinox Event






Archaeoastronomer Anthony F. Aveni of Colgate University, famed for his work with sun and star alignments on other Mexican sites, collaborated with Charles Kelly in 1977               Aveni, Anthony F., Horst Hartung, and J. Charles Kelley. 1982. "Alta Vista (Chalchihuites): Astronomical Implications of a Mesoamerican Ceremonial Outpost at the Tropic of Cancer." American Antiquity, vol. 47, pp. 316-335.
 

Tuesday, March 4, 2014

June Magic In The Hills Of Central Mexico

 June Magic In The Hills Of Mexico




Tropic of Cancer Archaeological Ruin Site.

     On June 22 some magic happens in the hills of Central Mexico.  The sun appears to stop on its northward journey through the sky and hover over the archaeological ruin site called Alta Vista, a 1,600 year old settlement in Zacatecas built directly on the Tropic of Cancer.  
     Chalchihuites is another name for the site, the same name as a nearby town.  What is magic here is the ancient settlement's placement on the Tropic of Cancer, the place where the sun stops in its movement north and then hovers for a day before rising and setting further and further south as the days progress and it works its way back south. 


Stone Calender Buildings

Did the ancients plan this placement on the Tropic of Cancer and if so why?

If you visit you will quickly learn that it was no accidental placement of this settlement.  In fact the place could be a stone sundial, celestial observatory, and carved rock calendar all in one.



Alta Vista Archaeological Ruin Site 

     Reach the Alta Vista archaeological ruin Site on a long downhill glide from the town of  Chalchihuites in Zacatecas State, Mexico.  Reach the town from the nearest large town Sombrerete, reached from Zacatecas.
     You enter the small museum and learn that the Teotihuacan culture built the site and that they built it with sight lines to the distant mountains where notches and ridges would mark the solar events.



     Research at Alta Vista began with Mexican archaeologists Manuel Gamino in 1908 and continued with Charles Kelley who began digs in 1971 and studied the site and region for 45 years.


 Solar Significance 

     The Archaeologists found solar significance in the construction of the buildings situated on a gently sloping hillside at 7200 feet above sea level.  The research by Kelley cites deliberate placement by the builders of the ritual center at latitude 23°28′58″N 103°52′39″W, on the Tropic of Cancer, give or take a mile.  Since the tropic line moves a few feet each year the ancient builders could be forgiven any error.


Chalchihuites  Museum

     From the museum, enter the site itself and look for the calendar stones and columns.   At the northern end of the site you will find stones aligned east to west and another group crossing that runs north and south.  It appears that the ancient builders constructed an ideal spot for the observation of the summer solstice or zenith day.  Those north south and east west stones would announce the coming of that day with diminishing shadows and announce the day itself when no shadow at all falls beside the stones .  At that location the sun would appear to stand still in its movement north over the earth on June 21 and would not only linger for a day directly overhead at Chalchihuites, but appear to reverse direction and start its (apparent) annual movement south.



     Researchers found cross-shaped petroglyphs on the mountain peak, Picacho, in the distance to the southwest, and on a ridge called Chapin,  similar to stone glyphs used by the builders of Teotihuacan when they designed that city. The sight lines to the glyphs would track the movements of the sun.



     Since no shadow would fall to the side of a standing column on Zenith Day it seems likely also that the so called Hall Of Columns had its ritual purpose as well.
The site was occupied from 100 AD to 1400 AD with active building stages between 400 and 850 AD according to researchers.  


       
   While it might seem like magic to us users of the compass and the GPS it appears that the indigenous of Mexico were keen observers of nature who built their religion around observed natural events.



Archaeoastronomer Anthony F. Aveni of Colgate University, famed for his work with sun and star alignments on other Mexican sites, collaborated with Kelly in 1977               Aveni, Anthony F., Horst Hartung, and J. Charles Kelley. 1982. "Alta Vista (Chalchihuites): Astronomical Implications of a Mesoamerican Ceremonial Outpost at the Tropic of Cancer." American Antiquity, vol. 47, pp. 316-335.




Zacatecas City, Zip line, Hiking Tour

Alta Vista Chalchihuites, Zacatecas

La Quemada, Chicomostoc Ruin Zacatecas

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Google Map Zacatecas




Monday, June 20, 2011

Bus to Zacatecas



Cathedral and Cerro de la Bufa
 in the background
    Bus to Zacatecas

      From Aguascalientes I took a bus from the central Camionera north to Zacatecas, another colonial city built during the peak of silver mining activity.  Zacatecas is about 70 miles north of Aguascalientes and takes about two hours to reach.  Two ruin sites and a church were of particular interest to me, one ruin site is built directly on the Tropic of Cancer, the northern limits of what is deemed the tropics.
      ETN buses run regular service many times daily for 145 pesos for the 2-hour trip.  This works out to be two pesos per mile for high-quality, first class service.
      Zacatecas churches are of interest because of the opulent interiors built when gold and silver mining made the city rich.  The churches were built of pink stone, often pink volcanic cantera  which gives the historic center of Zacatecas a sense of cohesiveness, no building more impressive that the baroque cathedral in the center of the historic district.
     The Cerro de la Bufa and several other hills surround the old section of the city which is built in a low area within the surrounding gold and silver mines.  These eighteenth century mines provided riches for the construction of many now preserved buildings.
      Nomadic people lived in the area 10,000 years ago and at around 2000 BC built more permanent settlements in what is now called Zacatecas after the Zacateco Indians who among others such as Nahuatl speaking Chicamecas lived in the area when the Spanish arrived.
Santo Domingo Church
     The local indigenous people had been mining the area for years but the Spanish took that over soon after they discovered silver on Cerro de la Bufa.   By 1550 the town that grew around the mining operation  was well established.

      In the 1960s the city built a cable car called El Teleferico that runs from Cerro El Grillo to Cerro de la Bufa.  At the top of the la Bufa hill a statue commemorates a 1914 victory by Pancho Villa during the 1910 Revolution.  El Grillo, the hill opposite, is the site of the Eden Mine, one of Zacateca's most successful operations.  The mine started producing silver in the 1580s and continued to operate until the 1960s. The mine now hosts tours
     Two entrances to the mine are open for tours and one offers a short train trip to the gem museum, and the start of a walking tour into two levels of the mine.
The La Bufa hill at the opposite side of the Teleferico ride offers a museum that chronicles the battles fought in the area during the 1910 Revolution and the 1926 Cristero War.  The top of La Bufa offers a great view of the city of Zacatecas and can be reached by road, by a walking trail, or by the cable car. There is a zipline ride available at the top of the hill La Bufa.


     The cathedral, Zacateca's most notable building was first built in 1657 on the base of an existing indigenous ruin, as was the custom of the Spanish colonizers.  A second building was built in 1612 and in 1729-1754 the building now on the site was constructed.
     Another notable church with carved and gilt alter pieces is the Temple of Santo Domingo  built in 1746.  The eight side altars are carved wood in Churrigueresque style covered with gold leaf.  The nearby Pedro Coronel Museum houses the artists work and his collection which includes work by Picaso, Degas, Dali and others.
     From Zacatecas, the Chihuahuenses Bus, a division of Estrella Blanca Bus, reaches  the 40 miles to Somberete where a local bus serves to the town of Chalchihuites.  From there, cabs reach the ruin of Alta Vista, an intriguing ruin claimed by researcers to be a solar observatory built directly of the Tropic of Cancer.




Alta Vista Ruin Next  

Friday, March 12, 2010

Bus Travel Chihuahua to Mexico City

Chihuahua, Mexico Bus

We reached Chihuahua at 7 PM.
      I left the Chihuahuenses to switch to an Omnibus. Chihuahueses does not put paper in the lavatories; Omnibus does. This is no big deal but it demonstrates that Chihuahuesesa has a low regard for the passengers that I find annoying. I had never ridden on Omnibus and wanted to check them out.

Copper Canyon train stop at Divisadero.  Train passenger get 15 minutes to
look out at the junction of three canyons  
Copper Canyon Trips
From Chihuahua you can get a bus to Copper Canyon for 240 pesos to the village of Creel in the high mountains at the edge of the Copper Canyon. The train is not the only option for a Copper Canyon visit.
see Copper Canyon options Copper Canyon Trips.  The Cuauhtemoc Bus makes 5 trips daily.

I left Chihuahua on an Omnibus at 8:00 PM after a burger dinner and settled in for the 12 hour trip to Zacatecas. (635 pesos)
I slept most of the night and arrived in Zacatecas at 9:00 AM, 8:00 Tucson time. I then booked a 10:45 Futura Bus for Mexico City Terminal Norte for 430 pesos.
Futura Buses are the best of the three: Futura, Chihuhuenses and Omnibus. They are each a good and convenient ride. Chihuahuenses does not provide paper in the lavatory (hardly a First Class attribute) and their bus was an older model frayed at the edges. Omnibus was running an older bus also but they did provide paper, took careful head counts, and had a well maintained lavatory.
The Futura bus did have paper in the lavatory and was the newest bus of the three.
Primera plus, a division of Flecha Amarilla, runs on the coastal route from Mazatlan to Mexico Norte and they run the best buses and best service for the long haul trip through Mexico, north of Mexico City.

Primera Plus runs luxury buses from Mazatlan on the Pacific Coast
 to Mexico City through Guadalajara  


I arrived at Mexico City's Terminal Norte and 8:00 PM and booked an ADO bus for Oaxaca,  leaving at 11 PM.
I have made this run before and I wanted to arrive in Oaxaca at dawn. ADO runs excellent service south of Mexico City. See ADO
I slept most of the way and arrived at 6:00 AM refreshed.
The total cost of the trip (excluding food) was around 160 USD including the Tucson/Douglas Shuttle. ($320 USD round Trip) Round trip air at the time was around $ 550 not counting taxi to and from the airport. (about $100 USD)
BUS-$340 USD including taxi transfer      AIR-$650 USD including taxi transfer.   (575 with a shared shuttle to Tucson Center)

Bus Service Mexico: Just Show Up. (Article)
The bus companies have web sites but they have for the most part opted for style rather than substance. They are full of razzle dazzle flash but lack function. With the exception of ADO and Primera Plus, they are not fully connected by computer and can not take bookings on the web.   That is not a problem. You just show up and there are so many options, so many lines and so many buses going in all directions that you seldom wait more than an hour, usually less. (Except at Christmas and Easter)
I usually stop in one or more cities for the night on a long trip like this. see Mazatlan,   Morelia,   Guadalajara,   San Louis Potosi,   Zacatecas, Chihuahua, Casas Grande, Alta Vista/Sombrerete

Estrella Blanca (Article) is a group of bus lines that serve 27 of Mexico's states. Lines include Futura, Futura Plus, Chihuahuenses, and Elite along with many more.

Mexico City Norte Bus Station
Mexico Norte terminal is a bus hub for trips north west and east primarily 
although ADO serves southern Mexico from Norte.  Buses from Norte 
terminal also serve to  Teotihuacan Ruin and Tula

Next: Eight Months Backpack By Bus to south America/Antartica